Opening up the previously members-only restaurant and bar Paramount at Centre Point to the general (if smartly dressed) public was a bloody good idea.  The views are immense. Like on the way up to Windows, your ears pop in the lift to the 32nd floor, and when you step out it’s like you’ve been transported into a terribly glamourous world where people quaff cocktails, sip Champagne and tuck into food with an air of insouciance that implies wining and dining at 385 feet is the most natural thing in the world. I just stood there wide-eyed, gawping at the view and looking terribly uncool.

The decor is slick and futuristic (if a little airport lounge) and the service, as you’d expect, is very suave and accomplished. We ate in the Red Room, a private dining space with a decidely Bond-like feel to it. I can imagine a troll-faced villain sitting at its gargantuan table stroking a Chinese Crested and looking out over London. The menu is modern European with nice little flourishes – such as the coddled egg which came with the summer truffle risotto and the grape chutney that came with the seriously good French and British cheese plate. Double baked Roquefort soufflé with beetroot and aged balsamic was delicious – the Roquefort creamy and molten inside the light walls of soufflé, and perfect against the endive and pear salad.

Main courses like sea bass with samphire, caviar cream and gnocchi make the most of quality ingredients (though on this occasion my fish was a bit on the salty side) and monkfish on saffron risotto was fresh tasting with a hint of muted spice.

The food doesn’t come cheap (starters begin at about £8 and mains span mid teens to mid twenties) but considering that you’d pay similar prices at City restaurants with far lesser views, I think the pricing is pretty fair. If you disagree, breakfasts (Monday to Friday 8:00am-10:30am) start at £2.50 for crumpets – nothing short of bargainous.

Whether it’s for sun-downers, supper or just a spot of breakfast, you should go to Paramount and take in the views of this sprawling, beautiful city we call London.