Nashville Nosh: The Loveless Cafe

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This gallery contains 7 photos.

I’d been hearing a lot from my friend Lindsay, who lived in Nashville for six years and whose parents we’ve been staying with on this trip, about the ‘biscuits’ at The Loveless Cafe, a roadside eatery that has been serving … Continue reading

Nashville Nosh: The Catbird Seat

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This gallery contains 21 photos.

Sometimes when I mentioned to people that I was going on holiday to Nashville their eyes would glaze over. “Why would you go to Nashville? It’s known as ‘Nash Vegas,’” said the girl I met while eating some surprisingly good … Continue reading

Lashings and lashings of nettle soup: uncovering wild food in the Isles of Scilly

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This gallery contains 14 photos.

A couple of weeks ago, during a visit to the Isles of Scilly, I came over all Famous Five – posting Instagram pics of ‘a beautiful hidden cove – great for a secret picnic!’ and ‘fisherman Graham relaxing after his … Continue reading

Audio: Angela Hartnett and Gabrielle Hamilton in conversation

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Audio: Angela Hartnett and Gabrielle Hamilton in conversation from Rosie Birkett on Vimeo.

A couple of weeks ago I had the serious career highlight of being sent by Nowness.com to cover Angela Hartnett and New York chef Gabrielle Hamilton’s collaboration as part of the ‘Girls Night Out’ cooking series – a celebration of six of the world’s best female chefs. You can read about that, and see some fantastic photos from snapper Leigh Johnson here.

It’s fair to say both of these ladies are something of an inspiration. Angela Hartnett is the trailblazing London chef who made her name under Gordon Ramsay before going on to buy her Michelin-starred Mayfair restaurant Murano from him in 2010. Gabrielle Hamilton is the chef patron of Prune restaurant in New York, which she has been running for 12 years. Last year she published her candid chef memoir ‘Blood, Bones and Butter‘ to great acclaim, and won the prestigious James Beard NYC Chef of the Year award for her East Village eatery.

Here is an audio interview I recorded with the two women at Shoreditch House, during which they talk about how they came to cook together, their shared love of Italian cuisine, and their views on the male/female chef divide – or lack thereof. Enjoy!

Photo courtesy of Leigh Johnson

Photo blog: Sven Elverfeld at Aqua

Today I have an article published in the Independent about Sven Elverfeld, a three-Michelin starred chef in Germany whose inventive renderings of his national cuisine has put the unremarkable industrial town of Wolfsburg on the global food map. You can … Continue reading

Turning Vietnamese: The Times

As you might have gathered from previous posts, I was in Vietnam in April – larking about and eating as much as I could. My love affair with Vietnamese food started long before that, when I first tasted beef wrapped … Continue reading

Nha Trang: the land of dried squids and bling coffee

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First published on the Spectator’s website We emerged from our deceptively named ‘sleeper’ train to the hot fug of Nha Trang and the imitable stench of dried squid. It was early morning, but vendors lined the station’s platforms, proudly gesturing … Continue reading

Hoi An: Vietnamese cookery classes and market karaoke

First published on the Spectator’s website The Vietnamese are masters of the two-wheeler. People carry their entire lives, families and livelihoods on the back of their mopeds – no matter how diminutive. On the lush, green three hour drive past … Continue reading

Good morning Vietnam!

I first tasted the sour, sweet, savoury and fragrant cuisine that is Vietnamese food in Song Que restaurant on the Kingsland Road in east London. It was there one dark and resolutely grim Shoreditch night that my palate was ignited … Continue reading