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Paramount: it’s very high up

Opening up the previously members-only restaurant and bar Paramount at Centre Point to the general (if smartly dressed) public was a bloody good idea.  The views are immense. Like on the way up to Windows, your ears pop in the lift to the 32nd floor, and when you step out it’s like you’ve been transported…

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Viajante restaurant review

First printed in Spectator Scoff!   You’ve got to admire Nuno Mendes’ tenacity. Having once tried, and once failed, with Bacchus – a restaurant serving his elaborate, inventive cuisine from the run-down depths of Hoxton – forcing him to create a supper club (and a very successful one at that) from his loft apartment –…

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Chef for a day: L’Enclume

First published on The Spectator’s Website Chef Simon Rogan’s Michelin-starred L’Enclume restaurant is in Cartmel, one of the most picturesque, remote villages in the Lake District: all cobbled streets, country lanes and babbling brooks. The course begins with a trip to Rogan’s organic Howbarrow farm, where you’ll pick seasonal bounty like broad bean flowers, lettuces,…

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Restaurant review: The Curlew, Bodiam

A few weeks ago I went for a meal that, quite unexpectedly, blew me away completely. Anyone who’s seen me in the subsequent weeks has probably been gabbled at about the fantastic British food Neil McCue is cooking at The Curlew. So here is a review I wrote about the meal, which was first published…

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My week in food

This week has been a whirlwind of eating… Bar Boulud Viajante Landseer British Kitchen, Bloomsbury Hotel

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It’s time to eat British asparagus!

As I’m sure you won’t have failed to notice, it’s British asparagus season – and it won’t be here for long. I’ve celebrated 1) by buying loads of the stuff and 2) by writing the first of my new blog series for The Food Network on the lovely green stalks. You can read that here….

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Nha Trang: the land of dried squids and bling coffee

First published on the Spectator’s website We emerged from our deceptively named ‘sleeper’ train to the hot fug of Nha Trang and the imitable stench of dried squid. It was early morning, but vendors lined the station’s platforms, proudly gesturing toward the fetid, dehydrated cephalopods which had about as much chance of getting near my…

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