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Restaurant Review: The Greenhouse

(Originally published on Foodepedia) Antonin Bonnet has held a Michelin star at The Greenhouse for the four years he has been working there, and it is thought by many that he should have been given a second this year. It certainly fits the French two star mould – silently swooping waiting staff who pull out…

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Restaurant review: Chapter One, Locksbottom

(Originally published on Foodepedia) Despite the many Michelin-starred gourmet boltholes scattered throughout this country, and the notable advancement of the British food scene over the past decade, there is still much talk of not being able to find a decent restaurant outside of London and our other major cities. Of course there are exceptions –…

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A decade in food: Chewing over the Noughties

The Guardian asked me to write a round-up of the past ten years in food, gleaning what I could of its culinary highs and lows through conversations with esteemed foodie people. I spoke to Metro food critic Marina O’Loughlin about her disdain for the celebrity chef and gratuitously dick-swinging cookery, and Angela Hartnett about her…

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Dining around at MGM Grand

‘Dining around’. It’s a bit like sleeping around really: not a a lot of honour in it, makes the participant feel somewhat guilty after the event, but is deliciously fun at the time. A different course at a different restaurant – I’d never ‘dined around’ before Las Vegas. But if there is one place on earth you’re…

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Cheer and boozing in Las Vegas

It’s day two and I’ve realised that what I’m doing in Las Vegas is basically the culinary version of Fear and Loathing. If he hadn’t blown himself out of cannon in Aspen, Hunter S. Thompson might be proud. This is gonzo food journalism, and any previous misconceptions I may have had about heavy food and…

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Blinis and lychee martinis

I had an impromptu dinner gathering the other night. After a thoroughly unproductive Saturday, I was determined to salvage something of the day, and my way of usually doing that is to cook and see friends. So I got on the phone, put out the invites and hit Waitrose. I’d already decided on roast lamb…

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Hot to trot(ter)

I’ve been hearing people in the food world talk about Pierre Koffmann’s famous pig’s trotters since I started writing about food. Ditto I’ve listened to chefs rhapsodise about Koffmann’s “immense” presence at his legendary La Tante Claire restaurant – whose famously difficult kitchen trained hoards of now Michelin-starred chefs in their own right – years…

Pierre in his kitchen at Selfridges
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Tom Kitchin returns to the stove with Pierre Koffmann

Today Edinburgh’s Michelin-starred, Scottish produce championing chef Tom Kitchin takes his place back in the kitchen with the legendary Pierre Koffmann at Selfridges fifth floor pop-up restaurant, as part of the London Restaurant Festival. Kitchin did his time in the kitchen of La Tante Claire back when he was  a young  up and coming chef…

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